Arms

When to choose arms

Use arms whenever you need flexible light placement around your underwater housing. They help reduce backscatter, shape shadows on your subject, and keep the rig close to neutral. A compact camera may only need a short section; larger DSLR or mirrorless setups with domes or dual lights often benefit from longer or float arms. If you are still selecting lights, see our underwater strobes and lights.

Key decisions

Standard vs. float arms

Standard aluminium arms are strong and compact. Float (buoyancy) arms add lift to offset heavy strobes or large domes so the rig feels lighter in the water.

Flexible arms

Segmented “flex” arms are easy to bend and great for small video or focus lights. They adjust quickly but are less suited to heavier strobes.

Connection systems

Most systems use the 1" (≈25 mm) ball standard with clamps. Brands like Nauticam and INON follow this spec closely. YS mounts and cold-shoe options are common on compact rigs; simple adapters bridge between ball and YS. Always match your clamps to the arm system so joints lock securely.

Length and material

Short arms (≈5" / 13 cm) keep a tidy, travel-friendly rig. Longer arms (≥8" / 20 cm) allow wider light angles for even coverage. Aluminium is durable; carbon or float designs from makers such as Weefine reduce in-water weight while staying stiff.

Practical tips

• Combine segments: a short inner arm for control plus a longer outer arm for reach.
• Balance the rig: float arms reduce underwater weight and wrist strain.
• Base stability: pair your arms with a solid tray and handles for consistent framing.
• Maintenance: rinse after salt water, check ball O-rings, and avoid over-tightening clamps.
• Travel: carbon or float segments can reduce baggage and in-water weight.